Discover Trastevere: Rome’s Bohemian Heart

Tucked away on the west bank of the Tiber River, Trastevere is one of Rome’s most charming and characterful neighbourhoods. With its cobbled streets, ivy-draped buildings, and buzzing piazzas, this historic quarter offers a different pace from the grand monuments of central Rome. Whether you’re here for a quiet afternoon stroll or a lively evening out, exploring Trastevere is one of the most authentic things to do in Rome.

A Storied Past

The name Trastevere comes from the Latin trans Tiberim, meaning “across the Tiber.” Once an Etruscan settlement, the area was incorporated into the growing Roman Empire around 753 BC but retained its distinct identity. Over the centuries, it was home to fishermen, craftsmen, and outsiders, developing into a tightly-knit and independent community.

By the Renaissance, wealthy families like the Farnese began to build elegant palaces here, and Trastevere became a haven for artists and thinkers. Its layered history is still visible today, from medieval churches to Baroque villas.

What to See in Trastevere

While Trastevere isn’t about big landmarks, it’s full of places that reward curiosity and wandering.

• Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere is the district’s main square and the perfect place to begin your visit. It’s home to one of the oldest churches in Rome, the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere, known for its glittering mosaics and peaceful interior.
• Villa Farnesina, a Renaissance palace decorated with frescoes by Raphael, offers a look into the lives of Rome’s wealthiest patrons.
• Museo di Roma in Trastevere showcases 18th to early 20th-century Roman life through paintings, photography, and folk traditions.
• Nearby, the Palazzo Corsini houses works by Caravaggio, Titian, and other masters, while the Orto Botanico (botanical gardens) provides a leafy escape above the streets.
• Architecture lovers shouldn’t miss the tiny Tempietto at San Pietro in Montorio, thought to be the site of St Peter’s crucifixion, and the Basilica of Santa Cecilia, dedicated to the patron saint of music.
• Cross the Ponte Fabricio or Ponte Sisto bridges to reach Trastevere from the Jewish Quarter or Campo de’ Fiori. The ancient Ponte Fabricio dates back to 62 BC and is still in use.

Exploring the Streets

The real joy of Trastevere lies in walking. Wander down Via della Lungaretta, once part of the old Roman road system, or get lost in its web of side streets where flower boxes, street art, and old stone buildings create a timeless setting. The further you move from the river, the quieter and more residential the neighbourhood becomes.

Where to Eat and Drink

Trastevere has long been known as one of Rome’s top food destinations. From family-run trattorias to trendy pizzerias, the area is packed with flavour.

• Pizzeria di Marmi is a no-frills local favourite serving crisp Roman-style pizzas and excellent supplì (fried rice balls).
• For a modern twist, try Seu Pizza Illuminati, offering inventive Neapolitan-style creations.
• Enzo al 29 is beloved for its carbonara and cacio e pepe, though expect a queue if you don’t book ahead.
• For a classic trattoria with hearty pasta dishes, check out La Tavernaccia da Bruno or Sette Oche in Altalena, both with outdoor seating and vegetarian options.
• Seafood lovers can head to Osteria der Belli, which mixes Roman and Sardinian flavours.

For a quick and delicious lunch, Fratelli Santi Mauro & Zeno serves up outstanding paninis made to order. Looking for a fancier dinner? Le Mani in Pasta is a reliable choice with fresh fish and handmade pasta.

Nightlife in Trastevere

As the sun sets, Trastevere’s relaxed daytime charm gives way to a lively evening buzz. It’s one of Rome’s best neighbourhoods for nightlife, attracting a mix of students, locals, and visitors.

Start your evening with a spritz at Bar San Calisto or sip natural wine at Trapizzino, known for its triangular stuffed bread pockets and small-batch Lazio wines. Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà offers a fantastic range of craft beers, while Freni e Frizioni is the place to go for cocktails and a busy terrace scene.

Piazzas like Piazza Trilussa and Piazza di Santa Maria stay busy well into the night, especially on weekends. Trastevere’s easygoing energy, historic setting, and excellent food make it a favourite hangout for both Romans and tourists.

How to Get There

Trastevere is easily walkable from the historic centre, Vatican, or Campo de’ Fiori. It takes about 15 minutes to reach on foot from the Pantheon or Piazza Venezia.

Public transport options include:

• Tram 8, which connects Trastevere train station to Piazza Venezia
• Bus lines H, 23, 75, 115, and 271
• From Fiumicino Airport, take the train to Trastevere station (around 30 minutes), then walk or catch a tram or bus

Taxis are widely available, with taxi stands at Piazza Gioacchino Belli, Piazza Trilussa, and Piazza Mastai.

Travel Tips

• Noise levels: If you’re staying overnight, keep in mind that the lively nightlife can mean street noise until the early hours.
• Mobility: Cobblestone streets can be uneven, so comfortable shoes are a must, and accessibility may be challenging for some.
• Dress code: Trastevere is casual but stylish. For an evening out, smart-casual attire fits right in.
• Best time to visit: Evenings and weekends are most atmospheric, especially in spring and early summer.

Why Visit Trastevere?

Trastevere is more than a picturesque district: it’s a place to experience real Roman life. With its mix of history, great food, independent spirit, and proximity to major landmarks, it’s easy to see why it’s considered one of the best areas to stay in the city, especially for first-time visitors.

If you’re looking for an experience that goes beyond ticking off famous monuments, spending time in Trastevere offers an unforgettable glimpse into the daily rhythms of Rome.